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In La Rioja, a small region huddled around the Ebro River Valley in northern Spain, it’s easy to feel a little dazed—and it is not just the un-ending supply of great local wine that lends itself to such slow shaking of the head, such squinting of the eyes. It’s also the scenery: Those rows of shimmering olive trees and gnarled vines that stripe each umber hill with silver and pale green; Those walled medieval villages whose ochre-tinged castles crown the tallest bluffs; Those pale blue skies where steely clouds swirl on breezes kicked down from the jagged Cantabria Mountains that hover above. It’s a fairytale backdrop, a faded page from a storybook suddenly come to life.
For aesthetes who prefer modern architecture to winding cobble stone streets (of which there are plenty, especially in the lovely capital city of Logroño), the region doesn't disappoint, either. Work from Santiago Calatrava, Frank Gehry, and Zaha Hadid rise out of the rural landscape like futuristic spaceships transplanted from another dimension entirely. And, the area is a foodie’s dream, too, with Michelin-starred chefs like Ignacio Echapestre at Venta Moncalvillo and Francis Paniego at El Portal del Echaurren offering innovative versions of traditional Basque cuisine in shockingly modern dining rooms that belie their quaint village locales.
With so much on offer, it’s a bit surprising, then, that La Rioja isn’t an American tourist destination on par with Bordeaux or Tuscany—though, as so often happens with under-the-radar gems, that may soon change. Below, a look at where to stay and what to drink should you decide to visit. According to locals, autumn—with its rich tapestry of gold, crimson, and indigo—is one of the most spellbinding times to go. So, you might want to start planning that wine-soaked Spanish holiday now.
Where to Drink
The region has one of the most strict and modern quality controls in the world—and, much like Champagne, only wines grown and produced within Rioja and approved by the control board (Denominación de Origen Calificada) can be labeled as such. Still, Rioja doesn’t simply apply to the easy-drinking reds most of us traditionally associate with the region. In addition to Spain’s indigenous Tempranillo grapes, the region grows Garnacha, Graciano, Mazuelo, Viura, Malvasia, Granacha Blanca, and Tempranillo Blanco (white), meaning that everything from aged red wines to young whites to delicate rosados (rosé) can be “Rioja”—and truly, many wine experts agree that the region’s whites and rosados are currently among the most exciting Riojas to drink.
Rioja is likely the only wine you’ll encounter in the area’s proud local pinxos (tapas) bars, and you won’t go wrong drinking whatever the barkeep’s pouring. But to truly experience Rioja, a few days hopping between some of the region’s 500-plus bodegas (wineries) is a must; many tasting rooms don’t require appointments and—as the Spanish wisely consider it poor form to drink on an empty stomach—many serve excellent pinxos to go along with the vino.
Bodegas Muga in the town of Haro, is an especially fun one to tour; the family-owned winery still adheres to many of the same production techniques (including building and shaping its own barrels) it has used since it was founded in 1932. The maze-like subterranean cellars at Conde los Andes are also a delight to explore—even Ernest Hemingway wandered the dusty halls during one of his Sun Also Rises-era excursions. For a more contemporary—and educational—experience, head to Bodegas Vivanco where the sprawling facility at the foot of the picturesque village of Briones houses a fascinating museum dedicated to the history, production, and enjoying of wine. (Be sure to sample Vivanco’s excellent Tempranillo Garnacha, a beautiful dark rosé with light berry notes.) And, a visit to the Santiago Calatrava-designed building at Bodegas Ysios—an unofficial symbol of the region—is practically a requisite; The wave-like facade makes a stunning photo framed by the purple Cantabrias in the background.
Where to Stay
With its tangled titanium facade, the Frank Gehry-designed Hotel Marques de Riscal on the site of the famed Bodegas Marques de Riscal, is perhaps the most famous hotel in the region. It is also one of the most luxurious, with 43 guest rooms featuring floor-to-ceiling windows that allow for sweeping views of the surrounding vineyards. There’s also a massive Vinotherapie spa by Caudalie on-site and a Michelin-starred restaurant helmed by chef Francis Paniego. The airy wine bar has a spacious tiled terrace overlooking the picturesque medieval town of Elciego. Certainly worth a visit—and the time it takes to sample several glasses of Marques de Riscal’s very delicious rosé and a few slices of local smoked Idiazabal cheese—even if you’re not staying at the hotel.
Though somewhat less showy, the Hotel Finca de los Arandinos is another aesthetic gem, with just fourteen rooms and a minimalist-modern design that—thanks to the combo of blonde wood and crisp white—feels almost Scandinavian. The hotel’s location nestled amongst olive trees and vineyards just outside of Logroño, however, will leave no doubt that you’re in La Rioja—especially when you take it all in via the large windows and open terraces that dominate much of the hotel’s design.
Of course, there is no shortage of more traditional hotels and classic country inns in the region. Castillo el Collado, a 10-room hotel housed in a stone castle perched on the edge of the beautiful walled village of Laguardia offers stunning views of the vineyards and Cantabrias and is sure to satisfy any latent Game of Thrones fantasies.