Thanks to Icelandair’s generous stopover program, many visitors to Reykjavik only have a day before jetting off to their next destination. Luckily, Reykjavik is small and walkable, so you can see plenty even if you only have a few hours. Take a cab for the 45-minute (or so) ride from Keflavik airport, or grab a seat on one of the group pickups (like Reykjavik Excursions or Gray Line Tours) neatly timed to flight arrivals. You can book these in advance, which saves on hassle and gets you ready to kick off your day in Reykjavik.
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It’s hard to miss Church of Hallgrímur, the striking church (the largest in Iceland) whose rocket-like tower is visible around town, like a beacon for wayward Icelanders. The stark design was inspired by the basalt lava that flows in the north of the country. Pose for a selfie with the statue of explorer Leif Erikson out front—it was designed by Alexander Stirling Calder, father of the renowned mobile maker of (nearly) the same name—before going up to the top of the church. Iceland is notoriously cold and windy, so the roof of the building is enclosed, but there are windows at every possible angle, so you won’t hurt for gorgeous vistas from all vantage points.
The other most iconic building in town is Harpa —a bright, angular concert hall and event space perched on Reykjavik harbor. The core of the building was the work of a Danish architecture firm, but the most eye-catching portion is its outer shell, made of multicolored three-dimensional cubes of glass designed by beloved Icelandic-Danish artist Olafur Eliasson. There are tours of the facility two to three times a day depending on the season (they cost about $15 per person and are worth the fee if you're a design buff or want a peek at some of the off-limits areas), but you can also take the elevator up and explore a bit on your own for free. Head to the fifth floor to see the Eliasson-designed diagonal glass staircase that looks as if it's suspended in space, or walk around to the back for unobstructed views of the waterfront and the ferries going out to Videy Island.
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Everyone in cold, hyper-caffeinated Reykjavik has an opinion about where to find the best coffee. Coffee culture here is important—many of the country's most important political decisions have been made over a shared pot of the strong stuff, and in a small nation where everyone seems to know each other, coffeehouses are an important social setting.
For sheer atmosphere go to Stofan Café, a Viennese-style cafe whose mismatched chairs, blue-and-white Delft porcelain mugs, and lacy tabletop tapestries are cute without being twee. Order a cafe mocha in the morning or tea and cake in the afternoon.
Cafe Loki is directly across the street from Hallgrimur in a part of town known as “the neighborhood of the gods,” since the streets are named for Nordic deities like Freya, Thor, and, yes, Loki. Despite its touristy location, the food is reliably good, authentically Icelandic (always ask for extra portions of the thick brown bread and homemade Icelandic butter) and reasonably priced. If you’re curious about the hákarl, a local delicacy of fermented shark fin (in his book *The Geography of Bliss,*writer Eric Weiner said it took three days for him to get the ammonia-y taste of the stuff out of his mouth), you can order a small portion here. Otherwise, opt for the hearty lamb soup and a rye bread ice cream made in-house—it has a slightly nutty flavor and is almost chewy at parts, but it's just the right palate cleanser after a big meal on a cold day.
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Iceland has a small but entrenched design community, and local stores make a point of selling products from Reykjavik-area designers. Located on the trendy Laugavegur shopping street, Kiosk is a co-op owned and operated by eight Icelandic fashion designers, some of whom exclusively sell their work here. Be on the lookout for lipstick-printed tops by EYGLO, brightly patterned pants from Hildur Yeoman, and Milla Snorrason's chunky knitted hats and sweaters. The designers often double as shop clerks, so you never know who you might meet.
When it comes to cute and clever home goods, the Nordic nations never disappoint. Down the road from Kiosk is Hrim, a gifts and housewares store where you will pick up tons of presents for friends back home (and yourself, of course). The store has a solid high/low mix, so you can pick up an exquisitely made teapot or set of hand-painted bowls as easily as a "My Selfie Machine" iPhone case or a "Behold, the tools of a genius"–printed makeup bag.
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