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Sommelier's pick: Plonk! owner Scott Miller picks Oregon pinot noir

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Scott Miller poses for a portrait with a bottle of 2014 Big Table Farm, Pinot Noir, Pelos Sandberg Vinyard, at Plonk Bistro, Wednesday, July 6, 2016, in Houston. ( Jon Shapley / Houston Chronicle )
Scott Miller poses for a portrait with a bottle of 2014 Big Table Farm, Pinot Noir, Pelos Sandberg Vinyard, at Plonk Bistro, Wednesday, July 6, 2016, in Houston. ( Jon Shapley / Houston Chronicle )Jon Shapley/Staff

Who: Scott Miller, "wine sheriff" and owner of Plonk! Bistro

Background: A long-time resident of the Oak Forest/Garden Oaks area, Miller opened Plonk! eight years ago in a neighborhood with very few options for wine drinkers. Now, the area boasts far more choices in restaurants and bars, which excites him as a resident who enjoys good food and wine. But he still prides himself on being a trailblazer and delights in the fact that Plonk! is very much a "neighborhood joint," welcoming plenty of local regulars each night, along with some "long-distance neighbors" who believe his eclectic wine list and seasonal menu is worth the drive.

What: 2014 Big Table Farm Pelos Sandberg Vineyard Pinot Noir from Eola Amity Hills, Oregon

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Why: Miller has a passion for Oregon wines and a history of supporting up-and-coming wineries in the region. Rising star Big Table Farm is one of his favorites, and he thinks this single-vineyard designate is a perfect example of why Big Table has started to gain worldwide recognition. Balance, he says, is key to the wine's charm. His first impression "is one of bright, macerated berries, but a certain austerity and lingering smokiness separate this pinot noir from your typical fruit-forward wine. 'Silky' is a word that's over-used in describing wine. However, such a luxurious fabric can't help but come to mind when I think about the wine's texture. If it were a type of silk, it would be more damask than chiffon - there's a density and a woven quality to the mouthfeel." Miller favors pairing the wine with the wild-caught Pacific salmon, currently featured on his summer menu.

Price: $80 for a bottle at Plonk! Bistro, 1214 W. 43rd

Dale Robertson

Photo of Dale Robertson
Sports Correspondent / Wine Columnist

Dale Robertson retired from the Houston Chronicle sports staff in February 2019 after having spent 46-plus years as a sports writer at a major daily newspaper in Texas. He still serves as the Chronicle’s wine columnist while writing occasionally about health issues and travel destinations.