BEST VIEWS
Holme Fell, Hodge Close, Coniston
This lovely, family-friendly fell (only 317 metres) has huge views over Coniston Water, out of all proportion to the effort required to the scale the summit. You’re very unlikely to see anyone else up here on its heather-clad summit and, half way up, there is a delightful lake for a swim. From here, pick a path to the summit via the boulders, keeping to the right. On your descent, make sure to explore Hodge Close, a remarkable lagoon quarry. The view from the edge down into the jade waters is extraordinary and terrifying, and the reflection of the caves is said to resemble a skull. The intrepid can descend safely to water level to explore the caverns or Parrock Quarry behind.
South of Skelwith Bridge on A593, turn right signed “Hodge Close only”. Continue to the end to find parking and quarry. From the south end, a path leads up through woods to the lake and summit. 45 minutes. Map co-ordinates
Gordale Scar from above
At the end of the last ice age, 15,000 years ago, vast quantities of meltwater waterfalls created dramatic limestone escarpments with spectacular views. Gordale Scar is perhaps the most otherwordly, but few people ever approach it from above. This route crosses wild meadows, thick with purple orchids, and descends to a pretty beck lined with caves and crags. The water suddenly disappears through a great hollow as it approaches the lip, but it emerges again. You can follow it down via a steep path, before suddenly arriving at the top of a dramatic waterfall lookout. Down below is a great circular chasm, 100m deep and once a huge cavern which has long-since collapsed.
The best approach is via the beck from Street Gate, near Malham Tarn, or Mastiles Lane Roman camp. Alternatively ascend from Gordale campsite below. 30 minutes. Map co-ordinates
BEST WALKS
Crackpot Hall and Muker meadows, Keld, Swaledale
Swaledale was so remote in the 17th century, the nearest consecrated burial ground was over three days’ away, along the valley-top “Corpse Road”. Start by following this from Keld then descend down to the spectacular double waterfalls at Kidson – perfect for swimming and jumping – before climbing up to the wonderfully named Crackpot Hall. Perched high on the edge of the valley by a mine, the name comes from the Old Norse word kráka for crow and Old English pot for cave or ravine. In the 1930s, stories were told of untamed children who lived there like “spirits of the moors”. Afterwards, continue on to Swinner Gill, a deep canyon with pools, caves and lead-mine ruins – great fun for scrambling, too. Follow the river down to Muker to picnic in some of the best traditional meadows in England, or enjoy lunch at the Farmer’s Arms, but save some energy for the return to Keld, back on the Corpse Road.
Allow three hours
Wasdale Head and Piers Gill, Wastwater
With England’s highest mountain and deepest lake, this a fabulous and dramatic valley to explore. Start at the white quartz beach at Overbeck Bridge, where there are wonderful views of Scafell Pike towering over the lake and looking like something from Tolkien. Passing England’s smallest church, head up the Wasdale valley, but bear right at 300m altitude for a spectacular canyon gully scramble up the precipitous ravine of Piers Gill. This is a fabulous but little-used route up to the Corridor Path at 700 metres (and leads onto Scafell Pike if you wish). Descend via Lingmell Gill and refresh yourself at the lively Wasdale Head Inn (camping at the National Trust campsite nearby).
Allow six hours
BEST RUINS AND SACRED SITES
Brat’s Hill Stone Circles, Burnmoor
Humans first inhabited the Lakes region over 13,000 years ago and while many have heard of Castlerigg stone circle, it is but one of hundreds of hidden bronze-age “druidical” structures used for astronomy and worship over 4,000 years ago. Above Eskdale, on Burnmoor, there is a cluster of no fewer than five stone circles, all within minutes of each other, among a sea of burial cairns and sacred stones. It’s one of the most sacred but least visited spots in the Lakes, and leads on to remote Burnmoor Tarn with its haunted “lodge”. The scenery on the walk there is stunning and you might spot carnivorous sundew plants and butterwort.
From the Boot Inn, go past the mill and head left up towards the fell on the bridleway. Allow 45 minutes. Map co-ordinates
Jervaulx Abbey ruins and wild garden
Founded in 1156, Jervaulx Abbey was once a great Cistercian monastery but was pillaged during the dissolution in the 16th century. These superb ruins are now beautifully planted in a semi-wild fashion, surrounded by parkland and ancient trees. North Yorkshire abounds with abbey ruins, but Jervaulx feels lost in time. Entry by donation. Look out for the impressive old beech tree avenue in the car park opposite, and the pleasant tea room in the visitor centre.
Signposted between Middleham and Masham on the A6108. Map co-ordinates
BEST REMOTE PUBS
Falcon Inn, Arncliffe
Littondale is a lost valley in the heart of the Dales, with a perfect babbling trout stream, ancient woodlands and a backdrop of high fells. This venerable ivy-clad village inn has changed little in 100 years and, from 1972 to 1975, was the original Woolpack Inn from Emmerdale Farm. The lunch menu is built on pies, ploughmans (£5.95) and Timothy Taylor beers from the cask and served in a jug; stuffed deer heads and fishing tackle adorn the walls. There are six large bedrooms: one with a four-poster, cheaper ones with good old-fashioned shared bathrooms. Fishing permits for the Skirfare river are included in the price. Gamey dinners – a fried grouse starter, say, followed by pork chops and Yorkshire curd tart – are served at 7pm sharp.
Doubles from £70 B&B. Arncliffe, Skipton, 01756 770205, thefalconinn.com
Kirkstile Inn, Loweswater
In the far north-western corner of the Lakes, this much-loved 19th-century inn has log fires and oak beams. It doesn’t feel touristy, and is brilliant for exploring Crummock Water and Loweswater lakes, and for those staying in the shoreside bothy at Holme Wood (nationaltrust.org.uk). Real ales are brewed on site and there’s hearty food on the menu (lunch mains from £6.75), with an emphasis on local suppliers. The inn holds a beer festival every spring. There are 11 bedrooms in rustic style, including a family suite.
Doubles from £52.50pp B&B. Loweswater, Allerdale district, 01900 85219, kirkstile.com
BEST WILD SWIMS
Esthwaite, Hawkshead
People flock to Windermere but the serene lakes just to the west are far less busy. Esthwaite is warm and large with a long silver gravel beach which gently shelves into crystal clear water. Dive in and swim out among the reflections of Latterbarrow and Furness fells. There’s easy access from the lane-side car park, and a tea room with row boats to hire. A few miles further south is High Dam, with rocky headlands, little islands and woods all around.
Esthwaite is two miles south of Hawkshead. Map co-ordinates
Appletreewick, River Wharfe
The river Wharfe is one of the best wild swimming rivers in the Dales, but in tiny Appletreewick you can escape the crowds. There’s an idyllic rocky pool in the river with a small island and bay, plus rapids upstream and a large shingle beach on the far bank downstream. There’s a good rope swing on the far side, with grassy banks and a field for picnics. Children can often be seen riding on rubber rings down the rapids from Mason’s Campsite upstream. Across the road is the eccentric Craven Arms, which is full of antiquities, has gas lighting, log fires, stone-flagged floors and a striking heather-thatched cruck barn. Upstream is Loup Scar, which is near Burnsall, a fantastic stretch of grassy riverside and limestone cliffs to explore. There’s a terrifying jump here, into a small, very deep plunge pool.
Appletreewick rocky pool is two miles off the B6160 between Grassington and Bolton Abbey. Opposite the New Inn (the-new-inn-appletreewick.com) find a gate and follow the track for five minutes down the field to the river. Map co-ordinates
The Wild Guide to the Lake District and Yorkshire Dales by Daniel Start covers over 750 wild and hidden places to explore. It is published on 1 June (£15.99, Wild Things Publishing). For 30% off and free p&p use discount coupon “Guardian” at the checkout
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