This story appears in the June 28, 2017 issue of Forbes. Subscribe
Edible enlightenment from our eatery experts and colleagues Richard Nalley, Monie Begley and Randall Lane, as well as brothers Bob, Kip and Tim.
Union Square Cafe
101 East 19th St. (Tel.: 212-243-4020)
Though Danny Meyer's iconic American restaurant has moved to new, stellar multilevel quarters, it remains all about the food. From chef Carmen Quagliata's classics, such as polenta with maitake mushrooms with pesto, gnocchi with ricotta filling and a drizzle of tomato and basil, the Berkshire pork chop and the USC burger with Beecher's cheddar and bacon on brioche, to his more than ten new dishes--some changing with the seasonal market--all are top-notch. Desserts are happily decadent.
Left Bank
117 Perry St., at Greenwich St.
(Tel.: 212-727-1170)
This is the perfect setting for a cozy, intimate dinner. The menu, though limited, is varied and sure to satisfy. The soups and salads are delicious; the grilled octopus with potatoes and spicy chipotle sauce is beyond fabulous, and the steak tartare runs a close second. For main courses choose from excellent pastas and meat and fish dishes. Throw restraint to the wind and have the incredible dark chocolate espresso mousse for dessert.
Butter
70 West 45th St. (Tel.: 212-253-2828)
The yellow light isn't about the food but the dismal service and the gloomy basement setting (despite the skylight). The receptionist can barely be bothered to look up from her cellphone, and the staff continually underperforms. As for the fare, the wild salmon tartare is tasty, and the Butter chopped salad with radishes, kale, apples and cucumber is dressed to tangy perfection. Delectable raspberry-jam-filled beignets with vanilla-bean dipping sauce are a triumph.
Kingside
124 West 57th St., the Viceroy Central Park hotel (Tel.: 212-707-8000)
Marc Murphy's new restaurant looks a bit like a stylish diner, but it sure ain't no greasy spoon. The pecorino toast with ricotta and truffle honey is as tasty as it sounds, and the cauliflower chowder is delicious. The hand-roasted scallops with squash, parsnips and almonds and the brined, roasted chicken with Parmesan, farro and chili are both home runs. All the desserts are wonderful, but our favorite is the affogato.
Motel Morris
132 Seventh Avenue, at 18th St.
(Tel.: 646-880-4810)
This place is unpretentious fun: friendly, happening, reasonably priced--and loud. The decor of the small space has elements that evoke an upscale 1960s motel. The pimento cheese deviled eggs with pickled chilis are as spicy and fabulous as they sound. To go with your hand-cut steak tartare and sriracha potato chips, order some irresistible Parmesan-crusted onion rings with BBQ aioli. Finish with the banana pudding pie, and you'll be in heaven.
