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There’s a moment shortly after Amtrak’s Coast Starlight pulls away from the station in Oxnard, California, when passengers migrate to the glass dome observation car in pursuit of a coveted window-facing seat. The train lunges west, dips down to the sea, and the Pacific Ocean fills the window frame. This view continues for over 100 miles and has been dazzling riders since the route’s inception in 1971. The Coast Starlight departs once daily and takes 35 hours to trek from Los Angeles all the way up to Seattle (and vice versa). And despite garnering popularity for its coastal scenery, there's plenty more on display when riding along this journey. After traversing California's iconic coastline the train also soars through sprawling valleys and winds around snow-capped mountains and cascading waterfalls, easily lending it status as one of the most beautiful train routes (if not the most) in all of the United States.
The route isn’t without its shortcomings—it’s been known to run behind schedule and there’s no Wi-Fi available onboard. But fans of the Coast Starlight don’t ride the train so they can answer work emails while racing from point A to point B, they do it for the romance. For the opportunity to experience this 1,377-mile stretch of land from an old-school perspective—and with 28 picturesque stops dotted along the way—extending the trip into a multi-day exploration feels all but necessary. Here, Vogue rounds up the best Coast Starlight stops to make while embarking on this historic train route.
Los Angeles
The Coast Starlight begins its voyage from Union Station in Los Angeles (or Seattle if you’re coming from the other direction). This landmark building was constructed in 1939 and is an architectural gem thanks to its unique confluence of Spanish Mission and Art Deco styles. Because the train has just one departure daily around 9:45 a.m. the best option is to stay in downtown LA the evening before. A quick 10-minute drive from the station, Hotel Figueroa has been welcoming guests since it was built in 1926 as a safe haven for solo female travelers. Now, after an extensive restoration of its Spanish Colonial roots and an emphasis on female-made artwork, the hotel is an atmospheric respite from the bustle of downtown.
For a bite, swing by the newly-opened Mandolin Taverna for authentic Aegean cuisine from husband-wife duo Ahmet Erkaya and Anastasia Koutsioukis (think: grilled octopus, baked feta, manti dumplings, and kötfe). And should you be in need of a nightcap, The Varnish more than fits the bill. It’s a speakeasy-style lounge tucked behind an unmarked door at the rear of Cole’s, itself a Los Angeles institution that's been serving french dips and cocktails since 1908 and is a designated city monument.
Santa Barbara
It’s easy to see why Santa Barbara is nicknamed the ‘American Riviera’—this coastal enclave is replete with natural splendor, yes, but with the added bonus of world-class accommodations, cuisine, and wellness amenities. The city’s cohesive style nods toward Mediterranean and Spanish-revival design influences that complement the golden Santa Ynez Mountains and deep blue Pacific Ocean. Thankfully, everything is more or less a 10-minute drive away, so jump right in with a spa booking at El Encanto, A Belmond Hotel, Santa Barbara (the Body Regeneration Treatment is handcrafted by celebrity facialist Linda Ross and ideal for a head-to-toe glow). Afterwards, stroll the grounds of the nearby Old Mission, which was founded in 1786. It’s often referred to as the ‘Queen of the Missions’ due to its distinct beauty, and highlights include the double bell towers, original adobe wall, Chumash-made altar, and grand Moreton Bay Fig Tree.
For a lunch with unparalleled views, book a table at one of the city’s most iconic and historic hideaways: San Ysidro Ranch. The property was named by Franciscan monks who occupied the land in the late 1700s and the hotel has been hosting guests since 1893 (Audrey Hepburn, Winston Churchill, and Jacqueline Kennedy have all stayed here).
San Luis Obispo
The central coast of California is a land of simple pleasures; natural beauty and sleepy town charm thrive here. The Coast Starlight’s stop in San Luis Obispo (‘SLO’ if you’re local) is strategically located within an hour-or-less drive of several notable destinations, like Hearst Castle in San Simeon or Pismo Beach for their famous clam chowder. But if you’re wanting to stay local, book a room at Granada Hotel & Bistro. This 17-room boutique hotel is located within walking distance from the train station and celebrates its 100th anniversary in November. Design details like wrought iron Juliet balconies, 1920s exposed brick, and Persian rugs all give the historic property its distinct ambiance, and the restaurant—with its French bistro setting—brings Spanish flavors and local wines to life.
If you’re leaning toward something off the beaten path, however, drive 25 minutes northwest to Cayucos, an under-the-radar beach town with little to do besides watch the waves crash from a hike, bicycle, surfboard, or beach chair. The Pacific Motel just opened in Cayucos this month and is a restored original motel with a collection of bungalows and rooms with artwork by local artists, linens by Parachute, and Scandinavian wood stoves.
Paso Robles
You can conceivably try local wine at just about any of the Coast Starlight’s California stops, but for a tasting experience that feels equal parts rustic and refined, head for Paso Robles. This central coast region has over 200 wineries scattered along windy backroads and within the industrial wine zone dubbed Tin City. Make Stables Inn your home base; the 19-room ‘Western chic’ boutique motel is three blocks from historic downtown and is the little sister to Paso’s iconic Hotel Cheval.
You’ll be spoiled for choice when crafting a tasting itinerary—Eberle, Adelaida, Daou, Booker, Tobin James, and Tablas Creek are a few reliable favorites among oenophiles—and for a hearty dinner, make a reservation at Six Test Kitchen in Tin City, which received one Michelin star in 2021 and is under the helm of Chef Ricky Odbert (fun tidbit: Six Test Kitchen is also Paso’s first Michelin star restaurant).
Oakland and San Francisco
While San Francisco doesn’t have an Amtrak hub, the city can be reached by ferry from Oakland’s station, which takes around 25 minutes. Depending on your preferences and timeframe, you can visit one or both of these destinations on this Coast Starlight stop. Heading into SF? San Francisco Proper opened its doors five years ago but the boutique hotel is still a favorite amongst aesthetes and a lovely place to check into for the evening. There’s also The LINE San Francisco, a new opening in the Tenderloin neighborhood designed by Handel Architects.
Also be sure to check out the city’s newest museum, the Institute of Contemporary Art San Francisco (ICASF), or swing by the Diego Rivera exhibition at SFMOMA (closing January 3, 2023). Thinking you’ll spend the day in Oakland? Reinhardt Redwood Regional Park is just a few miles from downtown and has trails surrounded by 150-foot redwoods. Afterwards, traipse along the Oakland Vegan Trail for a few plant-based bites before hopping back on the train.
Portland
If you have the bandwidth, Eugene and Klamath Falls are both worthy Oregon stops on the Coast Starlight route. But if you’re limited on time, head straight for Portland where innovative cuisine, lush scenery, and architectural gems await. Book a room at The Nines, a Luxury Collection Hotel in the historic Meier & Frank building located downtown. Here, guests ascend to the eighth floor to enter the hotel, where they’re greeted by an over 400-piece art collection and rooftop restaurant, among other flashy amenities.
And because one comes to Portland to eat, don’t miss out on Kann. It’s a live-fire dinner house bringing together Haitian cuisine with the Pacific Northwest’s iconic bounty (the warm interiors were designed in partnership with Fieldwork Design as a nod to the restaurant’s colorful Caribbean-inspired menu). Book a reservation quickly: Kann just landed on the New York Times’ 50 Best Restaurants in America list. For a cozy cocktail, grab a seat at the speakeasy-style basement bar at The Hoxton, Portland called 2NW5 (it’s been closed for two years and is set to reopen this fall).
Seattle
Complete your coastal journey in the Emerald City, a destination long beloved for its proximity to the great outdoors, fresh seafood, and iconic coffee culture. Check in at Fairmont Olympic Hotel, it’s situated in the heart of the city and the 1924-era property recently underwent a $25 million renovation, including a refreshed grand lobby, new Olympic Bar, and intimate spirit drinker’s lounge called Founders Club. Seattle is also known as the heart of North America’s studio glass community, with over 700 glass artists residing in the state (including Dale Chihuly). Take advantage of this and visit the many museums and galleries showcasing these delicate works of art. And since you’ll probably make your way to Pike Place Market for a photo op, swing by nearby Elliott’s for a dozen freshly-shucked oysters.